Deep Dive: Hurraw Balm Oils

in Sep 28, 2023

Throughout the fall we will be releasing a number of "Deep Dive" articles to highlight the incredible lengths our brands have gone to make sure their products are good for you, and the planet! 

To start off, we want to highlight just one component of the Hurraw Lip Balms: their oils. They have been meticulous with their selection, so we want to show you how they differentiate from one another. 

Oils can be extracted in different ways and we think it matters.


Cold pressed:  Raw seeds, fruits or nuts are pressed under high pressure plates. Low heat is generated. The oils are filtered during or after the pressing process to remove any remaining plant particles. The oils retain their flavor, aroma and nutritional value. Shelf stability varies on storage conditions. The left over seed cake can be repurposed as feed or composted.


Expeller pressed: Raw seeds, nuts or fruits are usually passed through a rotating type screw grinder; the husks (cake) go one way, the oil the other. expeller pressing is usually performed at lower temps but the grinding process (friction) does create some heat. How much heat often depends on the equipment being used and the seed or nut being screwed ;) The oil is filtered using physical methods (clays, steam and micron filters can be used to lighten and deodorize the oils). Nutritional value still mostly intact. Shelf stability varies based on processing temps and storage conditions. The left over seed cake can be repurposed as feed or composted.


Refined: There is no standard definition of "refining" oil seed stock but it often requires high heat. Usually it employs enzymes and acids to de-gum the hot oil and often, petroleum based hexane or other solvents are used. In trying to squeeze out every last drop of seed oil with solvents, the seed "leftovers" are now considered toxic. They can't be used for anything and must be disposed of as hazardous waste. Refinement increases yield and shelf life but also contributes to a loss of nutrients and ingredient integrity.


Hurraw balms are made with...


Almond oil California/Italy/Spain organic
INCI: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: expeller pressed
Exceptionally rich in nourishing fatty acids. It moisturizes, softens, and re-conditions superbly. We loooove almonds but non-mono-culture-organic-grown almonds are becoming difficult to source and we have moved away from it's use in our balms. Our Almond Lip Balm and Almond Neroli BALMTOO still contain organic almond oil.


Apricot Kernal Oil Kenya organic
INCI: Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernal oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed / virgin
High in vitamins A and E. Great for sensitive and mature skin.


Argan Oil Morocco organic
INCI: Argania spinosa (argan) kernel oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
‘Liquid Gold" they say... Super restorative and moisturizing.


Avocado Oil California/Kenya organic
INCI: Persea gratissima (avocado) oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
Thick, green, and vitamin rich (A & E). Full of essential fatty acids.


Baobab Oil Africa organic
INCI: Adansonia digitata (baobab) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
Thick, golden yellow, and vitamin rich (C, A & E). Restorative, rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants.


Black Cumin Seed Oil Africa/Middle East organic
INCI: Nigella sativa (black cumin) seed oil
Function: skin tonic
Extraction: cold pressed
Reputed for its regenerative qualities. Anti-bacterial/fungal. Herbaceous, warming and strengthening for the skin.


Borage Seed Oil Canada/New Zealand organic
INCI: Borago officinalis (borage) seed oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed
Delicate and light. High in gamma-linolenic acid and readily absorbed by skin.

 

Castor Oil India organic
INCI: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil
Function: emollient
Extraction: cold pressed/physical refinement
A natural emollient from India, our organic, cold pressed, castor oil makes an excellent protective barrier against harsh conditions; anti-inflammatory and very soothing.


Common Question: What about Hexane?

Our Castor Oil is cold-pressed. Hexane is not used to extract the oil from the seeds, therefore it is hexane free.


Common Question: What about Ricin?
Ricin is a lectin that is toxic to humans. “Ricin does not partition into the oil because it is water-soluble, therefore, castor oil does not contain ricin...(Cornell University Dept. of Ag).” Our castor oil is cold-pressed, ricin free and recognized as ‘food grade’. cold pressed castor oil has been used internally for hundreds of years in Ayurvedic medicine. Our castor oil is organic and comes from India. The waste material is properly disposed of by high temperature burning.


Chia Seed Oil Peru organic
INCI: Salvia hispanica (chia) seed oil
Function: botanical moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed
Exceptionally high in Omega 3’s. Highly absorbable and great for sensitive skin.


Coconut Oil Mexico organic
INCI: Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: centrifuged
A fabulous moisturizer and super for soothing inflammation. We use coconut oil that has been extracted using a centrifuged method. This method gently separates fresh coconuts and allows a pure raw oil to be obtained.


Coconut oil can be extracted in a few ways...


Centrifuged: Fresh coconut flesh is plate pressed. Mixture is “spun” to separate oil and water. Little to no heat generated. Oil remaining is considered raw. It smells of delicious coconuts, is creamy and lighter in texture.


Cold pressed: Grated and dried coconut flesh is pressed. Temperatures can vary resulting in different tastes and smells. A more “intense” toasted type coconut flavor. Heavier in texture and best suited for cooking.


Expeller pressed: Dried coconut flesh is put through a rotating press. Most popular method of extraction for coconut oil. Generates a good amount of heat and oil must be filtered and cleaned. Does not smell like coconut oil, can sustain high cooking heat but nutritionally pretty void. MCT (fractionated coconut oil) is a solvent derived bi-product.


Powdered Coconut Oil/Fractionated Coconut Powder/Coconut MCT Powder Mexico organic
INCI:Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil and Acacia senegal gum Function: moisturizer and/or dietary fat
Extraction: expeller and dried
Organic coconut oil is sprayed and dried onto a carrier, in this case, organic acacia senegal gum. Used widely in the dietary world.


Green Tea Seed Oil China organic
INCI: Camellia sinensis (green tea) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
Non greasy, deeply absorbed, nutrient rich and a wonderful moisturizer.


Jojoba Oil USA organic
INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
Arizona grown. Holds properties that are very similar to our skin's own; deeply absorbed, nutrient rich and a wonderful moisturizer.


Kukui Nut Oil Denmark
INCI: Aleurites moluccana (kukui) nut oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed/clay refined
Thick, rich and luscious. Very emollient and moisturizing.


Macadamia Nut Oil Australia organic
INCI: Macadamia integrifolia (macadamia) nut oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed
Super stable and high in monounsaturated fatty acids.


Marula Seed Oil Namibia organic
INCI: Sclerocarya birrea (marula) seed oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed/virgin
South African fruit oil. Emollient, nourishing and highly absorbable.


Meadowfoam Oil USA
INCI: Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: expeller pressed/refined (non-solvent)
Oregon grown. Highly emollient and nutrient rich with moisturizing and rejuvenating capabilities. Being a highly sustainable oil, we swapped to using it (vs almond oil) in our balms.


Moringa Seed Oil India organic
INCI: Moringa oleifera (moringa) seed oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed/virgin
Emollient and nourishing, gentle for sensitive skin. Vitamins A and C present.


Olive Oil Italy organic
INCI: Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed/extra virgin
Nutrient rich fruit that has been honored for over 5000 years. Rich in antioxidants, vitamins A & E; natural squalane properties moisturize, repair and protect.


Papaya Seed Oil Turkey
INCI: Carica papaya (papaya) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed/virgin
Rich in the enzyme papain and vitamin A, a skin soother.


Pomegranate Seed Oil
INCI: Punica granatum (pomegranate) seed oil
Function: emollient
Extraction: refined (non-solvent)
Anti-inflammatory and high in antioxidants and a great source of the essential fatty acid Punicic.


Primrose Seed Oil China organic
INCI: Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) seed oil
Function: botanical emollient
Extraction: cold pressed
Delicate and light oil. Super moisturizing and high in essential fatty acids.


Raspberry Seed Oil Chile
INCI: Rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil
Function: emollient
Extraction: cold pressed/virgin
High in tocopherols and polyphenols, absorbs in skin beautifully.


Rosehip Seed Oil Bulgaria organic
INCI: Rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil
Function: emollient
Extraction: cold pressed
High in Vitamin C to help combat dryness and aid in rejuvenation.


Sacha Inchi Seed Oil Peru organic
INCI: Plukenetia volubilis (sacha inchi) seed oil
Function: moisturizer
Extraction: cold pressed/virgin
Nutty, thick and earthy. High in Omega 3’s and 6’s. Super moisturizing.


Safflower Seed Oil USA organic
INCI: Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil
Function: emollient
Extraction: expeller pressed/filtered
Excellent emollient. Moisturizes superbly with a near identical fatty acid profile to almond oil. Golden in color and thus, higher in cartenoids. Sustainable, drought resistant; high oleic and grown and pressed here in Montana. Direct farm sourced, harvested and extracted just four hours away from our production facility :)


Sea Buckthorn Oil China organic
INCI: Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
High in carotenes lending to it’s deep orange hue. Contains the elusive Omega 7, which can assist in skin health.


Sesame Oil Mexico/Texas organic
INCI: Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil
Function: skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed
Super hydrating and penetrates quickly; full of fatty acids to protect and nourish.


*Infusion:
In our Kapha Lip Balm, the sesame oil is given an herbal infusion of Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum leaf powder).

In our Pitta Lip Balm, our sesame oil is given an herbal infusion of Amalaki (Emblica officinalis fruit powder).

In our Vata Lip Balm, our sesame oil is given an herbal infusion of Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera root extract).


Sunflower Seed Oil
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil
We do not use sunflower oil in our balms but our natural tocopherol preservative is made from sunflower oil. Therefore it is listed on the label as per EU cosmetic and INCI regulations.


Tamanu Oil Madagascar organic
INCI: Calophyllum inophyllum (tamanu) oil
Function: botanical skin conditioner
Extraction: cold pressed/virgin
Medicinal, thick, green and gorgeous. Uniquely earth-like in scent.